Art Resin FAQs & Troubleshooting Guides
There is a difference in viscosity between the resin and the hardener meaning the ratio end up with one component being slightly heavier than the other. However there is a margin for error built in, meaning using 1:1 by either volume or weight gets perfect results. Some resin’s have a slightly different weight ration – check instruction on the bottle.
Canvas, wood, metal, strong card and concrete. Plastic and glass can be used as well, but if put under sheer loading, de-lamination is possible. Canvasses should be supported in the middle to avoid slumping. E.g. Foam board can be fitted either temporary or permanently under a canvas. Check that there are no bumps or hollows.
The shelf life is 12months in opened or unopened bottles. In reality it will last far longer than 1 year but over time the hardener will oxidise (turn slightly yellowish) and also the accelerators in the formulation will lose reactivity. Thus the resin will take longer to cure after a few years of storage.
Add multiple coloured resin in layers in one container, give a gentle ¼ stir, then pour into the centre of a level surface and allow the resin to flow. Resi-BLAST can also be added to a couple of the layers.
These Epoxy resins have not been tested on animals, and contain no animal parts.
Although our resins are formulated with the most modern and safest epoxy chemicals available, all epoxy resins are chemicals and should be managed and handled with proactive safety hygiene and responsible care. Under each resin product there is a section on Mixing and safety.
- Always wear nitrile gloves (or use a specialist resin barrier cream)
- Wear a respirator when sanding partially-cured resin
- It is advisable to work in a well ventilated room
- We advise the use of safety goggles
- Avoid skin contact (if resin gets on skin wash with plenty of soap & water); use nitrile gloves
- DO NOT eat, drink or smoke while working
- In case of eye contamination wash with plenty of water for 15 minutes and consult medical advice immediately
Adding inks/paints/mica powder/glitter to epoxy resin will change its properties and may reduce its non-toxicity. If you use alcohol inks DO NOT use a flame to remove bubbles, as alcohol is flammable.
I followed the mixing ratio exctly, but I am left with extra resin or hardener in the bottle afterwards?
This is normal when you mix by volume. The reason is that the viscosity and density (specific gravities) of the resin and hardener differ.
We formulate our resins to have a built-in margin of error so even if you don’t measure an exact 1:1 or 2:1 ratio the resin will still cure perfectly.
Any excess resin or hardener can be accumulated until you have enough to require more of the other component.
Post resin-compatible pigments, pates or tints can be used in conjunction with our range of epoxy resins, but avoid water based colours. Important: Do not incorporate more than 10% pigment to resin ratio by weight, as this will affect the curing process.
With a broad-edge tool or spatula. Be sure to be thorough and scrape around the sides and base of the mixing jug to make sure there is no un-activated material. Mix slowly to avoid drawing too much air into the mix.
No, when you add more hardener you overload the system and it will result in a tacky cure, or not curing at all, adding too little will result in the same problem. The speed of cure is determined by the amount of accelerator we formulate in the product and not by the by the amount of hardener you add. Please adhere to the recommended mix ratio on the bottles.
If the resi-BLAST is added to the resin mixture, stirred and then poured, it lessens the chance of hollows forming. Remember, the res-BLAST is a medium that pushes the resin away. When added directly to the artwork panel, it works fine, but more likely to form craters, as even a droplet can be large and is very effective. This may add an interesting textural element to your art.
Only add a few drops (2-4) to your coloured resin, mix and then pour – a small amount goes a long way! Some artists even use a toothpick to add to poured resin layer.
Yes. Some artists prefer to dab their art with a resi-BLAST wetted toothpick.
This may cause pitting if the resi-BLAST is dropped onto the pigmented resin, giving it a more textured appearance, but if the resi-BLAST is added to the pigment before pouring it will remain smooth.
Yes, once the bottom layer has cured. It is important to clean the surface of any resi-BLAST residue with dry, clean cloth or even isopropyl alcohol. Any resi-BLAST left on the layer, may interact and disperse the second coat of resin poured (forming more cells).
Some resin artists have also found it useful to lightly sand the layer before pouring a second layer – this may not be necessary.
It is either too cold for the chemical reaction to take place, the mixing ratio used is incorrect or the mixing itself was not thoroughly enough.
UltraCast XT resin system needs 14-21 days to reach maximum cured properties and temperature resistance.
The addition of pigments (inks, powders and pastes) as well as other resin additives (resi-BLAST, silicone, lubricants, alcohol or solvents) will lower its temperature resistance, this is because pigment substances themselves have a very low temperature threshold.
The addition of alcohol inks in particular can cause problematic surface finish due to its effect of lowering the viscosity (diluting the resin and impacting its density). It can result in cloudiness, dimples and other surface blemishes. The alcohol content in these inks will nullify the resin’s non-flammable properties. When alcohol inks or any other solvent is added, special care should be taken when heating the surface with an open flame blowtorch or butane gun.
The more pigments and additives added or mixed into UltraCast XT, the more the thermal withstand properties of the cured mass is lowered and compromised.
In this case, we recommend a final clear topcoat of UltraCast XT is applied on top of the pigmented layer to bolster its resistance against hot objects placed on it. Ensure resin is well mixed before application according to instructions.
This may be due to Amine Blush or Blooming.
Most epoxy resins that have a long working time may be prone to blush or blooming. Due its long open time, UltraCast XT is susceptible to Amine Blush1 and Polymer Bloom2 under the following usage conditions:
- high humidity
- low ambient temperature (15°C or below)
- draughty or windy conditions including air-conditioning.
To avoid this effect from occurring it is recommend the resin component (Part A) is pre-warmed before mixing with the Hardener. The temperature and humidity of the working area should be kept as consistent as possible while the resin is curing.
1 Amine Blush is a sticky, waxy or oily appearance on the surface of cured epoxy. It can also be spotty, milky or salt-like. This deposit is water soluble and can be wipes/scrubed away with warm, soapy water.
2 Polymer Bloom is caused by the segregation of additives from the polymers which migrates to the surface.
Do not use solvents like acetone or mineral spirits to remove the blush. Using a solvent may worsens the problem, spreading the blush around and possibly embedding it into the cured resin.
Blush can prevent additional coats/layers to stick to your work. See removal above.